Exfoliation... The Low Down

Since ancient times it seems to have been accepted that a healthy, flawless skin, free of dead cells, needs regular exfoliation. This body care ritual can be performed using products containing abrasive particles, layers of gomage which are then peeled off or creams with specific ingredients. Peeling, dermabrasion, scrubbing ... is exfoliation a necessity or an aberration?

The outside layer of the skin is the epidermis, whose cells originate in the basal layer (which separates the epidermis from the dermis). These cells gradually migrate to the surface and then die. Healthy skin is renewed every 30 days. Aged skin has a longer renewal cycle.

Keratinocytes, the most abundant cells in the epidermis, have a protective function. Dead keratinocytes accumulate in layers, fixed by a form of intercellular cement composed of lipids (fats). That way they do not shed more than is normal.

How do we know that a keratinocyte is dead? Because its cell lacks a nucleus. How does an exfoliant know that a keratinocyte is dead? It doesn't know. Therefore, in exfoliating and scraping our skin, we not only remove dead cells, but also living cells and all types of microstructures present in our skin. Conclusion as to what we do when we exfoliate? We indiscriminately remove cells, microbiota and flora and other elements that ensure the health of our skin.

Mechanical exfoliation

This is exfoliation proper, also called scrubbing. It is done with cosmetics containing abrasive particles or with horsehair gloves, brushes, sponges or other objects that make friction with the skin.

The cosmetics may contain particles of polyethylene, pumice stone or of pips or peel from crushed fruit, for example, apricot or peach stones, strawberry seeds, almond or walnut shells and even crushed legumes – hence the ads for scrubs using apricots, almonds or azuki beans. Adding the exotic touch, they sometimes include Dead Sea salt, Himalayan salt, sugar cane, etc.

Chemical exfoliation

This kind of exfolitaion, called peeling, uses cosmetics whose formulation includes urea or the AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) as active ingredients.

Urea-based creams facilitate moisturizing of the epidermis and encourage desquamation by dissolving the intracellular cement between dead cells. They are used in concentrations between 2% and 10%.

The AHAs, which were first used in cream formulations in the 1990s, help, like urea, with the sloughing process by removing the intracellular cement. At concentrations of 10% to 12% they act as exfoliants. Examples of AHAs include glycolic acid (from sugar cane or the famous snail slime), lactic acid (which Cleopatra was doing was a chemical peel), malic acid (from apples), citric acid and tartaric acid.

Gomage

Gomage involves spreading a sticky substance on the skin, usually on the face, waiting for it to dry and then peeling it off like a layer of skin. Another way to remove the mask is by rubbing the skin, resulting in what are called “mobile filaments” in cosmetics.

Effects

If the skin renews its cells every month, does it make any sense to “sand” it once or twice a week, without giving it the chance to regenerate itself? The risks are:

- Removing the protective horny layer makes the skin more vulnerable to sunlight.

- Removing the hydrolipid film makes the skin more sensitive to certain agents and could lead it to develop a lifelong intolerance to a cosmetic.

- Changing the flora reduces the skin’s protective barrier against microorganisms.

Scrubs or peels?

Scrubs have more disadvantages than advantages. The skin is not given a chance to regenerate. Today, with the life we lead and assuming that hygiene is daily, it is not necessary to exfoliate layers of skin to remove dirt.

After a scrub the sensory effect of a smoother skin is immediately evident. What we think is great sensorially, however, was an assault on our skin. It was probably not necessary, but in the cosmetics sector as elsewhere, commercial success lies in getting yet another product on our shelves. It all depends on how critical and demanding we are as consumers.

To genuinely work with the cell renewal process, the best thing we can do is to do chemical peels on an ongoing basis, for example, by daily using a gentle cream that contains urea or AHA. These creams are humectants that help slough off dead cells. Of course, the effect is not immediate. From a sensory standpoint, we will not suddenly feel that our skin is soft. However, ongoing use of this kind of cream will ensure that the skin looks beautiful and healthy.

Source:

Dermatologic Therapy

Our Favourite Exfoliation of the moment.....

Our O Cosmedics Exfoliating Cleanser. Why? Because it acts as an exfoliant as well as a cleanser! Empowered with not one but four physical exfoliating beads - cranberry seeds, jojoba beads, diatomaceous earth and hydrated silicone crystals! Your skin will be invigorated and deeply cleansed. Fortified with V8 Complex your skin will be left feeling hydrated, radiant and awakened. 

Call or come in for a visit to try it out! 

Tips for a Perfect polish Application...

Have you ever wondered how to get the most out of your polish application at home? Here are some helpful tips in achieving that perfect polish you want at home:

• Before you apply anything, make sure your nails are completely free of any product or polish. Wipe each nail with a non-acetone polish remover or rubbing alcohol to neutralize any oils that could be hanging around on the nail bed.
• Next, apply a base coat. This helps prevent discoloration of the nail and gives the polish a better base to adhere too, similar to priming a wall before painting.
• Apply your favorite color in three stokes, up the middle then each side getting as close to the cuticle as possible without actually touching it. Avoid the urge to go over the area repeatedly. Wait a few minutes and then apply your second coat the same way.
• Give yourself a few moments to relax and let the polish set, and then apply a top coat. Remember to use as few strokes as possible to prevent dragging the polish! You can also do a stroke along the end of the nail to seal the tip. The top coat will seal the color in helping to prevent chipping and giving a beautiful shiny finish to your now perfect nails! If you are constantly in water you can even apply two top coats making sure you seal the ends nicely. 
• If you happen to do a Not So Perfect application, just use a Q-Tip or orange wood stick with some polish remover and tidy it up.
• Reapply the top coat every few days to keep your manicure looking fresh.

Remember, whether you're doing it yourself or having it done professionally, the key to long lasting polish is in the preparation!

Dark Circles are NOT our friend!

Dark Circle SOS

Ever wake up on the day of a special event only to find those dreadful dark circles under your eyes? Don't panic. We have some helpful tips to help you prevent or lessen dark circles.

• Let's face it, dark circles are sometimes genetic. However, having plenty of sleep and less stress certainly help minimize the appearance of dark circles.


• Be sure to drink enough water. Dark circles are usually the result of dehydration. The skin under the eyes is extremely delicate and gets dehydrated easily. You may have noticed that they typically become more noticeable after a night of alcohol or coffee consumption. That is because alcohol and caffeine usually dehydrates our body.


• Use appropriate eye creams. Many eye creams will soften the lines and brighten the eye area. Products that contain Vitamin K, Vitamin E, sesame or avocado oil will help hydrate and redistribute the built up toxins.


• Putting cucumber on eyes may be soothing but it actually does nothing to disperse the toxins. If your eyes are tired or burning, try using an eye mask instead. They will help calm the delicate eye area. Use once to twice a week for the optimal results.


• If your dark circles are becoming more of a permanent fixture, you may want to use concealers to cover them up. Some concealers contain Vitamin K, E, and Chamomile and will help fix the problem while they are concealing. Choose a yellowish tone to offset the darkness. Use one that is only one shade lighter than your foundation. Otherwise, the eye area will be too light and there may be a glare.

Male V's Female Skincare

Are we different? Of course we are!!

Skin is male or female. Although the layered structure is the same, the skins of the two sexes vary in chemical composition and in functioning. The ingredients in moisturizers, exfoliants and anti-wrinkle products have been gradually adapted to the different characteristics of male and female skin. Skin care is gendered.

Is the skin of men and women so different? Whoever posed this question targeted a new line of research in the cosmetics industry, which had to respond with innovative products to the growing demand from men concerned about the appearance of their skin and wanting to care for it and even pamper it as women have always done. Male compared to female skin is thicker, has more fatty acids and more collagen, produces more sebum and has a more acidic pH. Despite needing more moisturization, male skin stays firmer and more elastic for longer, whereas women’s skin is thinner, produces less oil and collagen and has a more basic pH. Women’s skin is thus more sensitive and shows the signs of ageing earlier.

Gendered skin

These differences are due, in part, to the sex hormones, which bind to certain proteins when they arrive to the skin via the blood supply. This mechanism, which functions like a key in a lock, allow facial hair to grow in men but blocks it from growing in women. The sex hormones also make the sebaceous glands and sweat glands in men’s skin more active, which in turn makes their skin oilier and more humid.

 

Customized care for different skins

Most male cosmetics contain discrete or almost imperceptible fragrances, whereas women’s creams contain stronger fragrances, even though they often cause irritation. Daily shaving by men causes dryness, most especially in the chin area. The facial moisturizing creams for men that work best are those with glycerin or alpha hydroxy acids, which have a barrier effect that retains moisture. Men’s skin absorb such creams better because the numerous hair follicles function like pores and since the diameter of men’s follicles is greater than that of the pores of women’s skin, cosmetics penetrate better.

Cosmetics of the future

One of the challenges in designing new cosmetics that meet the different needs of male and female skins is skin pore size. Being able to change the size would make it possible to control the amount of sex hormones that bind to sebaceous gland receptors in the skin. This would help reduce excess oil production and acne and could also improve the absorption of cosmetic ingredients in less porous female skins.

Men also need cosmetic products with a higher alcohol content to prevent bacteria from colonizing small (or sometimes not so small) wounds resulting from shaving. Women’s skin, because it is thinner, benefits much more from creams containing antioxidants, such as vitamin E, that slow down the appearance of expression wrinkles.

Cleansing and care

Male skin requires as much care as female skin. Over time it accumulates dirt and dead cells and so should be cleaned or exfoliated. No matter whether you are a man or woman, you need to care for your skin and pamper it. Neglect accelerates the appearance of wrinkles, crow's feet and lines around the mouth. And – attention, men! – check for the after-effects of shaving. If you shave daily your skin has to be hydrated. And if you spend a lot of time outdoors, you need to take care to prevent sun damage to the skin.

Sources: Journal of Dermatological Sciences